“The silence of landscape conceals vast presence.” – John O’Donohue
Waves rolling ashore on Edingsville Beach sing me to sleep at night. I am blessed. Two inlets separate the small island, now called Jeremy Cay: Frampton to the north and Jeremy inlet to the south. The beach is quiet and pristine. Remnants of pottery and glass still wash up on the beach. And land with much history always tells her tale. This one, about how loved Edisto was, still survives.
Edingsville was the summer resort of the Sea Island cotton planter families on Edisto in the mid 1800’s, until the hurricanes of 1874 and the more devastating one of 1893 pretty much washed it away. Houses by the sea provided relief from the diseases that plagued those who stayed at the inland plantations, particularly from mosquito-borne malaria, to which the slaves seemed more immune. Planter families spent summers, until the first frost, at the beach.
The houses were beautiful and chimneyed, double storied, with verandas, they say. The dunes were high, and the road over crossed the marsh from Sunnyside on Peters Point Road, over the island to the causeway that still exists, past a spit of land called Cowpens, which I am sure at one time held cows. At Edingsville in her prime, there were 60 finely built houses, an Episcopal and a Presbyterian Church, a school for boys, and even a billiards hall and a hotel, called The Atlantic.
Recently I stumbled upon a beautifully written description of Edingsville, from a journal, written in 1864 by a woman named Charlotte Forten. She was the first black teacher to join the American Civil War’s Sea Island mission, and she taught freed slaves for two years on St. Helena Island. She was born in 1837 in Philadelphia to an affluent and influential family, and her journal, “Life on the Sea Islands” was published in The Atlantic Monthly, May and June, 1864. She died in 1914. The following is what I will rename, “Ah! Edisto a beautiful city!”…
“Early in June, before the summer heat had become unendurable, we made a pleasant excursion to Edisto Island. We left St. Helena village in the morning, dined on one of the gun-boats stationed near our island, and in the afternoon proceeded to Edisto in two row-boats. There were six of us, besides an officer and the boats’ crews, who were armed with guns and cutlasses. There was no actual danger; but as we were going into the enemy’s country, we thought it wisest to guard against surprises.
After a delightful row, we reached the island near sunset, landing at a place called Eddingsville, which was a favorite summer resort with the aristocracy of Edisto. It has a fine beach several miles in length. Along the beach there is a row of houses, which must once have been very desirable dwellings, but have now a desolate, dismantled look. The sailors explored the beach for some distance, and returned, reporting “all quiet, and nobody to be seen”; so we walked on, feeling quite safe, stopping here and there to gather the beautiful tiny shells which were buried deep in the sands.We took supper in a room of one of the deserted houses, using for seats some old bureau-drawers turned edgewise. Afterward we sat on the piazza, watching the lightning playing from a low, black cloud over a sky flushed with sunset, and listening to the merry songs of the sailors who occupied the next house. They had built a large fire, the cheerful glow of which shone through the windows, and we could see them dancing, evidently in great glee. Later, we had another walk on the beach, in the lovely moonlight. It was very quiet then. The deep stillness was broken only by the low, musical murmur of the waves. The moon shone bright and clear over the deserted houses and gardens, and gave them a still wilder and more desolate look. We went within-doors for the night very unwillingly.
Having, of course, no beds, we made ourselves as comfortable as we could on the floor, with boat-cushions, blankets, and shawls. No fear of Rebels disturbed us. There was but one road by which they could get to us, and on that a watch was kept, and in case of their approach, we knew we should have ample time to get to the boats and make our escape. So, despite the mosquitoes, we had a sound night’s sleep.
The next morning we took the boats again, and followed the course of the most winding of little creeks. In and out, in and out, the boats went. Sometimes it seemed as if we were going into the very heart of the woods; and through the deep silence we half expected to hear the sound of a Rebel rifle; The banks were over-hung with a thick tangle of shrubs and bushes, which threatened to catch our boats, as we passed close beneath their branches. In some places the stream was so narrow that we ran aground, and then the men had to get out, and drag and pull with all their might before we could be got clear again.
After a row full of excitement and pleasure, we reached our place of destination, —the Eddings Plantation, whither some of the freedmen had preceded us in their search for corn. It must once have been a beautiful place. The grounds were laid out with great taste, and filled with fine trees, among which we noticed particularly the oleander, laden with deep rose-hued and deliciously fragrant flowers, and the magnolia, with its wonderful, large blossoms, which shone dazzlingly white among the dark leaves. We explored the house, — after it had first been examined by our guard, to see that no foes lurked there, — but found nothing but heaps of rubbish, an old bedstead, and a bathing-tub, of which we afterward made good use.
When we returned to the shore, we found that the tide had gone out, and between us and the boats lay a tract of marsh-land, which it would have been impossible to cross without a wetting. The gentlemen determined on wading. But what were we to do? In this dilemma somebody suggested the bathing-tub, a suggestion which was eagerly seized upon. We were placed in it, one at a time, borne aloft in triumph on the shoulders of four stout sailors, and safely deposited in the boat. But, through a mistake, the tub was not sent back for two of the ladies, and they were brought over on the crossed hands of two of the sailors, in the “carry a-lady-to-London” style.
Again we rowed through the windings of the creek, then out into the open sea, among the white, exhilarating breakers,—reached the gun-boat, dined again with its hospitable officers, and then returned to our island, which we reached after nightfall, feeling thoroughly tired, but well pleased with our excursion.
From what we saw of Edisto, however, we did not like it better than our own island, (St. Helena) except, of course, the beach; but we are told that farther in the interior it is much more beautiful. The freed people, who left it at the time of its evacuation, think it the loveliest place in the world, and long to return. When we were going, Miss T.—the much-loved and untiring friend and physician of the people—asked some whom we met if we should give their love to Edisto. Oh, yes, yes, Miss!” they said. “Ah, Edisto a beautiful city!” And when we came back, they inquired, eagerly, — “How you like Edisto? How Edisto stan’?” Only the fear of again falling into the hands of the “Secesh” prevents them from returning to their much-loved home.”
Ah! Edisto a beautiful city! Yes, indeed, she is!
i remember as a small child of seven or eight going with my parents to the beach at jeremy’s inlet to look for shells while we were vacationing as usual at edisto. we had to cross a very marshy area, sometimes wading knee deep to get there. after we had been there for a couple of hours, we realized that the tide was coming in, threatening our return to the car. we had to hurry and cross over again in even deeper water. i remember being alarmed because, my parents seemed worried that we might not get back safely. it seems that there were some small sharks swimming in the inlet if i remember correctly. they paid us no mind though, cruising along the bottom oblivious to us. i remember that shelling was particularly good at jeremy’s inlet, i suppose because it was so desolate. this was 50 years ago, so i may have some of the details wrong…..
Mark! That is Jeremy Inlet and it is still a natural (and beautiful) inlet, and yes, still crossable at low tide from Edisto Beach. Some of the oldest artifacts, according to my archeologist friends, have been found in this spot, off shore. I found that plate remnant with several other pieces last year about this time, which is just amazing to me. I do hope you will come visit from Savannah soon! It is still beautiful!
Charlotte—I definitely will. I have tons of Edisto stories since we went there every summer from as long ago as i can remember thru my college days and beyond. it is heaven to me. i love its shabiness and hominess. we went there in days before airconditioning or any amenities and had such fun! we stayed in a small rustic cottage called “waterfront” and our minister and his family rented the one next door. we were episcopalians and had sunday services on the screen porch—sweet memories. we were living in columbia at the time and came down for a week each summer. the landlord was a mr. lybrand who also owned the “ocean villa” next door. there was a little restaurant and small gift shop in the o. v. at the time and i still have a small ship model made of shells i got there when i was 7—-50 years ago! how time flies! well, i’m rambling so i had better get back to work! see you soon.
Almost as long ago as when Mark was collecting shells, we used to walk out the road to Botany Bay at night. The road was overhung with trees and tall grasses grew on either side. It was a thrilling and scary walk in the dark. The darkness has been pushed back somewhat pon top Edisto with new developments, but that primal darkness can still be experienced back in some parts of the interior. So dark you just know something’s watching you, waiting for you, gonna GETCHA.
Well, in addition to primal darkness, and I do think we humans need a dose of that from time to time, don’t you? But, nighttime on Edisto, and the star filled night sky, is still, for me, like no place on earth. In no other place can I recall seeing shooting stars, streaking through the sky before my eyes, time and time again.
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Interesting account, but certainly on the interior plantations some of the slaves remained at their homes…not fleeing with their masters but remaining at what they considered home…one of my ancestors in Rebel Troop made a recon mission to Edisto to check on the Yankees and the rebels were accompanied by their servants…one night they were surprised by the Yanks and everyone fled the island…all their slaves found their way back to the mainland and the Rebel Troop.
Butch! Thanks for the visit! Civil War history is my weakest link, so I am sure your story adds to this. All I can imagine is that surely everyone was stunned and in shock, as war does to a culture, anywhere, anytime. This account is interesting since these houses at Edingsville only lasted a few more years, until the hurricanes. Charlotte Forte only stayed two years in the South and was disappointed at her success. She was so different culturally from the newly freed slaves and felt unable to achieve what she’d hoped.
Charlotte I have spent most of the morning just enjoying your blog. The piece of china you found is similar, I beleive to one or two pieces Suze recently found. So enjoying the art also! Really like the mattress tree and the “light” series.
Dear Kay! Thank you!!!!!!! One of those pieces wants to live at your house;)! I want to see what Suze found – what a fabulous beach we live on! Happy New Year, dear one! Cheers, Charlotte
Yes Charlotte! I think 2 of them acually belong at my house. The watercolor of the mattress tree and the arched Oaks watercolor. Can we talk about this? I cannot find your number in my phone of late. DO you still have mine? Maybe we could meetup in Chas?
Oh my goodness, YES, Kay! New studio/home number at here (local) is 843-856-0775. I will be on Edisto on Monday for sure, for the History talk by my friend Joe, who is sleeping in Slave cabins all over the country. At Trinity that evening – for the History Museum. YAY! xo
Great article. Thank you for the history lesson.
Thank you, Ryan!
Been going to Edisto for many years. My husband and I just recently discovered the joy of finding pottery on the beach. I don’t know why we never knew about this but I’m so glad we know now. My husband has found many different types of pottery. Yesterday he found a double sided blue print piece. We were wondering what kind of pottery would have the blue printing on both sides? Please give us a shout back if you might have any ideas. Thank you…sincerely, Sandee&Tommy ..p.s
Any ideas would help…thx again
Hi Sandee! Great find! But I have no idea. Send me a picture of what you have found, would love to see! Cheers, Charlotte firstname.lastname@example.org.